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ArtFactory Special Products Contact Us H. J. Nick is an Award Winning
Internationally Accredited Artist!

"There was a time when master craftsmen signed their work with pride
knowing each furnishing would become a cherished heirloom and antique.
Scottsdale Art Factory carries on this tradition!"
Scottsdale Art Factory Is The Largest Custom Manufacturer Of Fine
Artistic Furniture, Doors, Gates, Lighting and Hardware.
Handmade In America Since 1913

Shuffleboard - Ultimate Man Cave Table - MCSB789

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Unique Man Cave Table - This Solid Exotic Cedar Shuffleboard Table - Designed From The Historical Record - Fine Art Furnishing - You May Order This Furnishing Design In Any Size And Material - Made In The Same Hand By Our American Master Craftsman, As It Was Hand Crafted In Its Era. - Hand Hewn, Mortis And Tenon Joined - All Species Of Woods Are Available - Structural Frames Using Solid Full Length Timber (no fake laminates, scarf joints or glued up parts,no veneers - no glue ups - no bolt on legs) - Master Craftsmanship That Insures Your Furnishing Will Stand The Test Of Time - A True Family Heirloom And Valuable Antiquity - All Carving Is Hand Carved By Our Master Carvers (no cnc or faux casted resin carving) - Fine Art 10 Process Hand Rubbed Finished To World Class Antique Collectors Standards - ( no spray on faux fast paint jobs )

Master Blacksmiths Solid Hand Forged Wrought Iron - (no castings or hollow faux metals) - All Heat Applied Iron Oxide Hand Patina Finished - (no powder coating or faux paint on iron finishes) - Genuine Natural Stone - Top Grain Leathers (processed American tanneries only ) And Fine Fabrics Also Available - Guaranteed Forever - Order Any Size Or Style- Backed By Our Over Nine Decades Of Fine Craftsmanship Since 1913

Designs By H J Nick and Scottsdale Art Factory a handmade in America custom furniture manufacturer based in Scottsdale Arizona has been designing and building some of the worlds finest furniture for some of the world's most prominent and successful Persons, C.E.O.'s, leaders, royalty and celebrities for the last 97 years. Most of our clients want a furnishing that has a BIG WOW factor and elegance as well as investment value and makes a proper statement reflecting their personality or the personality of the environment for witch it is intended.


Hand carved exotic solid old growth woods and burls used along with the perfection of the signature fine art hand rubbed finish lets every one know that this room is special. Each furnishing is made to order and fits the personality of each client. some times the hand carvings are changed to art taken from company logos or personal photos that have family meaning etc.


These Tables Are The Best That Can Be Made World Wide - Some Can Make Them As Good - None Can Make One Better


This Antique Recently Sold For Many Thousands Of Dollars To Collectors In A Antique Auction


You May Order For Much Less Money: This Furnishing Design In Any Size And Material - Made In The Same Hand By Our American Master Craftsman, As It Was Hand Crafted In Its Era. Or Add A Modern Design Twist To Fit Todays Living Styles.

Create Your Own Future Antique - You May Order For Much Less Money Than This Antique Sold For - Order This Furnishing Design In Any Size And Material - Made In The Same Hand By Our American Master Craftsman, As It Was Hand Crafted In Its Era. Or Add A Modern Design Twist To Fit Todays Living Styles.

Don't Be Fooled By Our Upscale Appearance. Our prices are usually lower than lesser quality name brand mass production imports, "We Are The Factory," Hand Crafted In America Since 1913.

This Is Not A Foreign Made Mass Produced "Famous Brand Name" Fake Import Impostor.

We Custom Build Fine Art Furniture Residential And Commercial


Solid Exotic American Grown Timber - Built To Family Heirloom Quality - All Of Our Products Are Finished Inside And Out - All Backs Are Finished Same As The Fronts


We Offer All Species Of Solid Woods Important details about our timber and craftsmanship.


Our Factory Designers Are Expert At Manufacturing Our Products And Are Not Salesman.

Our Factory Designers Are Instructed To Educate Allowing A Informed Decision

"When Only The Best Will Do"

Choose From Our Designs Or Use Your Design - We Build To Our Hand Made Standards


All Scottsdale Art Factory Furnishings Are Designed In America and Built In America Using Solid Natural Air Dried Timber, Genuine Stone, Marble, Granite, Fine Leathers, Fabric And Hand Forged Iron. By The Hands Of True American Master Craftsmen.



As Seen On National TV (30 sec)



Under the supervision of world renowned artist H. J. Nick using only the finest materials. We use "No" engineered cores or faux materials such as paste boards, veneers, masonite, MDO plywood, melamine and oriented strand board panels with expensive wood sounding names such as walnut or hickory veneer etc.

"This Is The Real McCoy."



Purchase American Made - Invest In "Your" Future.

Investment Quality Equals An Appreciable Asset Furnishing, Destined For Antiquity.
We build only proud to own family heirloom furnishing, rich with family history and priceless heritage. This process begins with you and your family personalizing each piece with your own special design requests. H. J. Nick supervises the details and drafting process with his design team, and upon your approval, we then build your product. Once you receive your item, you can enjoy it secure in the knowledge it will increase in value and become a cherished family heirloom that is guaranteed to stand the test of time.


Historical Origin And Design Inspiration

Shuffleboard, more precisely deck shuffleboard, and also known as shuffle-board, shovelboard, shovel-board and shove-board is a sport in which players use broom-shaped paddles to push weighted pucks, sending them gliding down a narrow and elongated court, with the purpose of having them come to rest within a marked scoring area. As a more generic term, it refers to the family of shuffleboard-variant games as a whole.


In 16th century England, people played a game of sliding a "groat a large British coin of the day worth about four pence down a table. The game was called "shove groat" or "slide groat". Later, a silver penny was used and the name of the game became "shove-penny" or "shovel-penny". The game was played by the young and old, and was a favorite pastime in the country houses of Staffordshire, Winchester and Wiltshire.


In his play, The Crucible, about the witch trials in Salem, Massachusetts, Arthur Miller wrote: "In 1692, there was a good supply of neer-do-wells who dallied at the shuffleboard in Bridget Bishops Tavern," an indication that, according to Miller's unsourced research, the game had found its way to the Americas by the 17th century. In the 18th century, there were big shuffleboard matches conducted throughout the American colonies. Shuffleboard was popular among the English soldiers as well as the colonists.


In 1848, in New Hanover, Pennsylvania, the case of The State vs. John Bishop turned on the question of whether shuffleboard was a game of chance or a game of skill. The judge's decision stated "Though the defendant kept a public gaming table, as charged, and though diverse persons played thereat and bet spirituous liquors on the game, the game was not a game of chance, but was altogether a game of skill."


The game shed its crude beginnings when American cabinetmakers such as Hepplewhite and Duncan Phyfe turned out some of their finest inlaid cabinet work on shuffleboard game tables for the wealthy homes of New York City. By 1897, table shuffleboard rated as much space in the metropolitan newspapers in the New York City area as prizefighting and baseball. Highly publicized tournaments played by such colorful characters as "Big Ed" Morris, Dave Wiley, Alex Scott, Ed Gardland, and George Lavender drew hordes of fans. The fans faithfully followed the players to tournaments in New Jersey, in Newark, Paterson, Hoboken, Jersey City and Bloomfield, and even into Philadelphia.


The fans included important figures of the business, theatrical, and political worlds. Shuffleboard made its way across the country. In 1904, Gentleman Jim Corbett, an avid player, had a tavern owner named Croll install a table in his Alameda, California, pub. "Doc" Croll, his son, claimed it was the first shuffleboard in that part of the country.


During World War II shuffleboard came into its own. The intrinsic appeal of the game skill, diversity, competitiveness, availability to young and old, strong and disabled, the serious game, the fun game offered the kind of release needed in those turbulent years.


Hollywood climbed on the shuffleboard bandwagon and took it up, at first as a source of good publicity. Then when the pin-up girls and bandleaders and actors discovered they really liked the game, shuffleboards found their way into the studios and homes of the stars. People like Betty Grable, Harry James, Merv Griffin, Alan Ladd all had their own shuffleboards.


The game grew to its greatest height in the 1950s. Most major shuffleboard manufactures sponsored nationwide shuffleboard tournaments. These were the biggest tournaments ever held: one had 576 teams participating.


Fierce competition among major manufactures and suppliers, lack of uniform rules and organization, the inability to gain sponsorship of the sport, and general internal strife in all facets of shuffleboard, led to a demise of the game in the 1960s and 1970s. Some feared it was damaged beyond repair, but others invested their time, efforts and talents to breath life into the sport that they had loved. That dedication paid off, by the mid-1980s, shuffleboard experienced a reviva that has extended and strengthened in the 1990s.


One major accomplishment in this decade was the establishment of a National Shuffleboard Hall of Fame in 1995. Since then, several states have formed state or area shuffleboard Halls of Fame. Often, those who have been honored by their respective states are then nominated for induction into the National Hall of Fame.


To date, 12 people have been inducted into the National Hall of Fame: (California) PeeWee Ramos, Bob Miles, Billy Chiles; (Oklahoma) Bill Melton, Glen Davidson; (New Jersey) Mickey Mickens, Sol Lipkin; (Texas) Earl Kelly; (Nebraska) Denny Busch; (Pacific Northwest) Jim Foran. Several others are currently going through the nomination process. It is the NSHFs goal to recognize excellence for all deserving participants in The World of Shuffleboard and to finance a "home" for preserving the history of shuffleboard so that generation to follow will have a knowledge of and appreciation for that history.


Most Designs Used Today Were Conceived Hundreds Of Years Ago By Some Of The Worlds Most Famous Architects And Designers Working For The Aristocracies And The Well To Do Of Their Period.
Many of these architects and designers are as well known as Leonardo da Vinci (renaissance architecture) or Michelangelo,s (baroque architecture) as well as more recently William Morris, John Ruskin (founders of the Arts and Crafts furniture movement in circa 1800 England) Gustave Stickley (founder of the American Arts and Crafts movement in America circa 1900.) Frank Loyd Wright, Charles and Henry Greene to name a few.


Every Successful Creative Enterprise Is Always Built On A Foundation That Was Laid Down By Its Predecessors.
All creative people are dependent upon the groundwork laid down by those who came before them. H. J. Nick, artist and direct descendant of the Marbella brothers, and Scottsdale Art Factory have built on these foundations and have raised the bar of quality even higher. Thus setting a new standard and offering the finest one of a kind handmade furnishings found anywhere in the world in the 21st century.


Today Our Master Craftsman Build All Of Our Products Using The Identical Methods And Materials Of The Historical Period Of Each Furnishings Design Conception.


All 21st Century Designs Are Also Built By Our Master Craftsman Using These Classic Traditional Methods.


Whether We Build Products For Your Modern Dream Home Or Ancient Castle
every element Is always built to future collectable antiquity investment quality standards and will stand the test of time. Destined to become a part of your families appreciating financial net worth as well as a proud to own legacy heirloom.


We Are A "One Stop Shop".
Many of our clients commission furniture For every room, doors, gates, built-in cabinets, lighting and hardware for their entire project. For Example: We are capable of starting with your entrance door design style or personalized carving coat of arms, family crest or business logo and bring this design in a tastefull elegant way in to you interior and exterior lighting fixtures, entrance doors, Interior doors, cabinets, structural elements, entrance gates or furnishings for every room. Making your home a unique piece of your families tradition and legacy.


Many of the worlds finest builders, architects, interior designers, as well business and home owners choose Scottsdale Art Factory. Due to our large flexiable American work force and our ability to manufacture coinciding with construction deadlines.
Note: We do not import or out source allowing us total control of our supreme quality as well as your production requirements.

Product Details As Shown

As Shown: Lodge Style Shuffleboard Table, Color: Natural Lacquer, Semi Gloss - Exotic Cedar - Light Distress - 198"L X 33"T X 34"W. This custom built shuffleboard table is hand crafted with solid, exotic cedar. Constructed for longevity, the cedar is hand hewn, joined and doweled, and special attention has been given for accurate leveling. The entire wood surface is finished with five coats of hand rubbed lacquer, with the exception of the playing surface. Mar proof leveling feet are included.


Made by Champion the industry leader, this playing surface is 176"L X 20"W X 3" thick and has a "Lifetime Polymer" finish. The 1/4" thick polymer coating is applied over the maple playing field, creating a maintenance free surface. The need to sand and refinish can be an annual chore with most of the boards on the market. The "Lifetime Polymer" finish provides a fantastic playing surface which players have come to expect and is guaranteed for the life of the game board. Combined with our level of craftmanship, this game table will last for generations.


Color: Natural Lacquer, Semi Gloss - Exotic Cedar - Light Distress - 198"L X 33"T X 34"W. This custom built shuffleboard table is hand crafted with solid, exotic cedar. Constructed for longevity, the cedar is hand hewn, joined and doweled, and special attention has been given for accurate leveling. The entire wood surface is finished with five coats of hand rubbed lacquer, with the exception of the playing surface. Mar proof leveling feet are included. Made by Champion, the industry leader, this playing surface is 176"L X 20"W X 3" thick and has a "Lifetime Polymer" finish. The 1/4" thick polymer coating is applied over the maple playing field, creating a maintenance free surface. The need to sand and refinish can be an annual chore with most of the boards on the market. The "Lifetime Polymer" finish provides a fantastic playing surface which players have come to expect and is guaranteed for the life of the game board. Combined with our level of craftmanship, this game table will last for generations.


More Product Details As Shown

Table shuffleboard (also known as American shuffleboard, indoor shuffleboard or shufflepuck) is a game in which players push metal-and-plastic weighted pucks (also called weights) down a long and smooth wooden table into a scoring area at the opposite end of the table. Shooting is performed with the hand directly, as opposed to deck shuffleboard's use of cue sticks.


Shuffleboard tables vary in length, usually within a 9 - 22 foot range and are at least 20 inches wide. Tables are intended to be kept level, but any given table may have its own slight slope, adding an extra challenge. In order to decrease friction, the table is periodically sprinkled liberally with tiny, sand-like beads of silicone (often referred to as shuffleboard wax even though silicone is not a wax or sometimes as shuffleboard sand, or shuffleboard cheese, due to its visual similarity to grated cheese.). These beads act like ball bearings, letting a puck slide down the table a great distance with only a slight push.


Each end of the table is divided into three scoring sections by straight lines across the width of the table. The scoring sections extend from the very edge of either end of the table towards the middle of the table, covering approximately one-third of the length of the table. The outer scoring section, at the very end of the table, covers approximately 4 to 5 inches from the edge, and is labeled with the number "3" in the middle (for "3 points").


The next section is adjacent to this section, of equal length, and is labeled with a "2." The final section, "1", is adjacent to section "2." This section is about 4 times the length of either of the first two sections. The center third of the table is unmarked. The line that separates the center third of the table and the beginning of the "1 point" section is called the "foul line" (a weight which does not pass the foul line closest to the player is removed from the table for the round). The table is surrounded by a gutter, or "alley"; pucks that accidentally fall, or are knocked, into a gutter are out of play for the rest of the round.


Game play Scoring In general, players take turns sliding, or "shuffling," the weights to the opposite end of the board, trying to score points, bump opposing pucks off the board, and/or protect their own pucks from bump-offs. Points are scored by getting a weight to stop in one of the numbered scoring areas. If the majority of a weight crosses the line marking a scoring area, it is worth the number of points that the majority of the weight is in; for example, a weight that's stopped partially in the 3-point area and partially in the 2-point area will only receive 2 points if most of the puck is in the 2-point zone.


A weight that's hanging partially over the edge at the end of the table in the 3-point area, called a "hanger" (or sometimes a "shipper"), usually receives an extra point. Weights that haven't passed the foul line closest to the player are removed for the round. Pucks that fall off or are bumped off the table into the gutter are removed from play for the round. No points are tabulated until the end of the round.


When all weights have been shuffled, the player with the puck closest to the far edge of the table takes points for all pucks that are ahead of their opponent's furthest shot. The other player does not take points. For example: there is a red puck in 3, a red in 2, a blue in 1, and two red pucks in 1 but further away from the end of the table than the blue puck. Red player would receive 5 points, blue player does not score.


In 1974, Reginald Charles Gilchrist invented the digital scoring unit for table shuffleboards while president of Universal Shuffleboards, one of the companies he founded.


In one-on-one, each player is assigned a color of puck (4 pucks per player). Play begins at one end of the table, and each player alternates shuffling one weight at a time down towards the opposite end of the table (which becomes the "scoring end" of the table), until all 8 pucks have been shuffled. Each player tries to either land his puck closest to the end of the table, knock the opponent's pucks off the table, knock their own puck into a higher scoring area, or position a puck so that it will block their opponent from being able to hit another puck off the table.


This finishes the "round." Play then continues from the other end of the table, where the pucks have come to rest. When a set number of points has been reached by a player (often 15 or 21), that player has won that "frame." A "match" consists of a predetermined number of frames.


All Our Finishes Are Hand Rubbed Furniture Finishs or Patinas Our finish process includes five to ten coats of hand rubbed furniture quality clear oils or water based non-toxic lacquers. It is applied, cured, rubbed and re-applied depending upon whether your order is Limited Edition or old growth Original works. Every surface of this product is fine finished including the under sides and hidden areas. These doors are built to investment family heirloom quality and are finished to be virtually maintenance free and will stand the test of time. You may choose the natural color or from over 400 standard stain colors, or computer color match to any stain color from a sample you provide. Most of our finishes are water based and earth friendly. You may order any single color or texture finish at no extra charge. Fine Finish Information: Important details about our finish process: patinas, sealants and wood finishes.


Our Factory Designers Are Expert At Manufacturing Our Products And Are Not Salesman.

Our Factory Designers Are Instructed Educate To Allow A Informed Decision

It Is Our Experiance, Customers Informed And Educated Make SAF Their Choice

More Product And Finish Information

Every surface of this product is fine finished including the under sides and hidden areas. You may choose the natural color or from over 400 standard stain colors, or color match to any stain color from a sample you provide. Most of our finishes are water based and earth friendly. You may order any single color or texture finish at no extra charge.
Fine Finish Information: Important details about our finish process: patinas, sealants and wood finishes.

Hand Carving Information: Important details about the kind of carving you can expect when you order from Scottsdale Art Factory.


Colorized Carving. You can order any carving colorized. In order to achieve a colorized carving, multiple stain colors are used. The stains are hand applied and blended with an artistic eye to achieve an enhanced natural appearance.


Our Heritage: Marabella brothers come to America.


All Iron Is Coal Fired, Hammered By Master Blacksmiths The Old Fashioned Way And Patina Finished. At Scottsdale Art Factory, we take pride in our traditional, superior quality workmanship and craft our products from only the finest Iron. Our master blacksmiths have been classically trained, and utilize old world techniques such as coal firing, anvil hammering and hand forging to create the finest handcrafted hardware available anywhere. All of our iron work is hand patina finished by heat applying iron oxides to achieve a natural patina finish that will stand the test of time.



Nothing is Drop Forged. We create works The Old Fashioned Way using solid hand forged Iron, (drop forging is a poor quality, casted copy of a hand forged iron work of art).


Master Blacksmithing: The kind of hand forged metal work you can expect when you order from Scottsdale Art Factory.


Patina Finish As Shown: Various Colors Of Hand Applyed Iron Oxide Patinas. Our beautiful patina finishes are hand applied using a special patented process where oxides are bonded into the metal at over 1000 degrees. This permanent finish beautifies with age. S.A.F. does not paint or faux finish any of our iron creations. Paint fades, chips and cracks over time and patinas last forever. No Drop Forged Casted Copies. No Paint Or Powder Coated Finishes. limited edition or original works. Every surface of this furnishing is finely finished including the undersides and hidden areas.


Each item is finished to be virtually maintenance free and to age with grace. All steel parts are hand patina finished the old fashioned way by iron oxide hand applied with high temperature heat. We never powder coat or faux paint our steel, it has been proven paint and powder coating methods do not hold up over time. You may choose from many natural iron oxide colors. Our patina finishes are water based and earth friendly. You may order any single color or texture finish at no extra charge.
Fine Finish Information: Important details about our finish process: patinas, sealant and wood finishes.


Order Hand Forged Matching Furnishings Of Any Design.



Our Guarantee: We Guarantee Each Item "Forever" " No Questions Asked, backed by over nine decades of fine craftsmanship.


Our Price Guarantee: Why you may purchase hand made custom at production prices.


Scottsdale Art Factory carries on the American Arts And Crafts Movement of the 21st century, in the same way William Morris and John Ruskin (founders of the Arts and Crafts furniture movement in circa 1800 England) inspired Gustave Stickley (founder of the American Arts and Crafts movement) in America circa 1900. Frank Loyd Wright, Charles and Henry Greene (inspired architects of the ultimate cottages such as the Gamble House in Pasadena California) are credited with raising quality standard to its highest level in their day. All of these great master craftsman also inspired the Marabella Brothers in the early 20th Century (founders of SAF circa 1913).


Every creative enterprise is always built on a foundation that was laid down by its predecessors. Creative people are also dependent on the groundwork laid down by those who came before them. H. J. Nick, artist and direct descendant of the Marbella brothers, and Scottsdale Art Factory have built on these foundations and have raised the bar of quality even higher. Thus setting a new standard and offering the finest one of a kind handmade furnishings found anywhere in the world in the 21st century.


Our Heritage: Marabella brothers come to America.


See Our Blog More about the history of Scottsdale Art Factory and the American furniture movement of the 21st century.



More Information You Should Understand Before Making Your Furnishing Choice



High Quality Is All About How its Built And The Material It Is Made From - Understanding Joinery And Terminology



These Joints Have Been Proven For Thousands Of Years

Natural Materials Master Craftsmanship Cannot Be Replaced By Mass Production Methods

"We Still Hand Build To Investment Quality Like They Used To"


The Joinery, Material And Craftsmanship Determine Quality


Solid Wood Mortise And Tenon Joints, Simple And Strong

Mortise and tenon, simple and strong. The mortise and tenon joint has been used for thousands of years by woodworkers around the world to join pieces of wood, usually when the pieces are at an angle close to 90°. Although there are many variations on the theme, the basic idea is that the end of one of the members is inserted into a hole cut in the other member. The end of the first member is called the tenon, and it is usually narrowed with respect to the rest of the piece. The hole in the second member is called the mortise. The joint may be glued, pinned, or wedged to lock it in place. This joint is also used with other materials and, for example, is a traditional method for Stonemasons and Blacksmiths.


A mortise is a cavity cut into a timber to receive a tenon. There are several kinds of mortises.

Open mortise - A mortise that has only three sides. (See bridle joint).


Stub mortise or "suicide" joint - A shallow mortise, depth depends on the size of the timber; also a mortise that does not go through the work-piece (as opposed to a "through mortise"). the back is wider, or taller, than the front, or opening. The space for the wedge initially allows room for the tenon to be inserted, the presence of the wedge, after the tenon has been engaged, prevents its withdrawal. Sometimes called a "suicide" joint - since it is strictly a "one way trip".


Through wedged half-dovetail - A wedged half-dovetail mortise that passes entirely through the piece.


A tenon is a projection on the end of a timber for insertion into a mortise. Usually the tenon is taller than it is wide. There are several kinds of tenons.


Stub tenon - A short tenon; depth depends on the size of the timber; also a tenon that is shorter than the width of the mortised piece so the tenon does not show (as opposed to a "through tenon").


Tusk tenon - A kind of mortise and tenon joint that uses a wedge-shaped key to hold the joint together.


Through tenon - A tenon that passes entirely through the piece of wood it is inserted into, being clearly visible on the back side.


Teasel tenon - A term used for the tenon on top of a jowled or gunstock post, which is typically received by the mortise in the underside of a tie beam. A common element of the English tying joint.


Top tenon - The tenon that occurs on top of a post.


Feather tenon - A round-shouldered machined fillet or feather which is glued into a machine (router) made slot or mortise on each side of the joint.


Generally the size of the mortise and tenon is related to the thickness of the timbers. It is considered good practice to proportion the tenon as 1/3rd the thickness of the rail, or as close to this as is practical. The haunch, the cut away part of a sash corner joint that prevents the tenon coming loose, is one third the length of the tenon and one sixth of the width of the tenon in its depth. The remaining two-thirds of the rail, the tenon shoulders help to counteract lateral forces that might tweak the tenon from the mortise, contributing to its strength. These also serve to hide imperfections in the opening of the mortise.


Mortis And tenon is an ancient joint and has been found joining the wooden planks of the "Khufu ship", a 43.6 m long vessel sealed into a pit in the Giza pyramid complex of the Fourth Dynasty around 2,500 BC. It has also been found in archeological sites in the Middle East, Europe and Asia. The 30 sarsen stones of Stonehenge were dressed and fashioned with mortise and tenon joints before they were erected between 2600 and 2400 B.C.



Finger Joint - Box Joint - Comb Joint

The finger joint - (Also known as "box joint" or "comb joint") is made by cutting a set of complementary rectangular cuts in two pieces of wood, which are then glued. To visualize a finger joint simply interlock the fingers of your hands at a ninety degree angle; hence the name "finger joint." It is stronger than a butt or lap joint, and often forms part of the overall look of the piece.


The history of the finger joint is believed to have begun with wooden produce boxes or crates in the days before modern, man-made materials. Finger joints were originally cut by hand with saws and sharp chisels. In modern times they are easily and quickly made with a table saw or router and a jig or fixture, which can be shop-made or purchased from a specialty woodworking supply store. A finger joint jig typically consists of a moving fence with an indexing pin that is used to evenly space out the cuts. The fence is moved over a cutting blade making a cut that is then moved over the indexing pin so the next cut can be made.


The strength of a finger joint comes from the long-grain to long-grain contact between the fingers, which provides a solid gluing surface. The number of contact points also allows for more gluing surface as opposed to a butt joint or a rabbet joint.



The Dovetail Joint Pre Dates Written History As Shown On This Romanian Church

A dovetail joint or simply dovetail is a joint technique most commonly used in woodworking joinery. Noted for its resistance to being pulled apart (tensile strength), the dovetail joint is commonly used to join for example the sides of a drawer to the front. A series of pins cut to extend from the end of one board interlock with a series of tails cut into the end of another board. The pins and tails have a trapezoidal shape. Once glued, a wooden dovetail joint requires no mechanical fasteners.


The dovetail joint pre-dates written history. Some of the earliest known examples of the dovetail joint are in furniture entombed with mummies dating from First Dynasty of ancient Egypt, as well the tombs of Chinese emperors. The dovetail design is an important method of distinguishing various periods of furniture.


Dovetails can be cut by hand or by machines, often with an electric router and using one of a range of commercially available jigs or templates. Although it is technically a straight forward process, hand-cutting dovetails requires a high degree of accuracy to ensure a snug fit and so can be difficult to master. The pins and tails must fit together with no gap between them so that the joint interlocks tightly with no movement. Thus the cutting of dovetails by hand is regarded as a mark of skill on the part of the craftsperson.



It Takes A Master Craftsman To Hand Cut Perfect Joints

The angle of slope varies according to the wood used. Typically the slope is 1:6 for softwoods and a shallower 1:8 slope for hardwoods. Often a slope of 1:7 is used as a compromise - perhaps using a dovetail template for marking out.


When being cut by hand, there are two schools of thought as to whether the pins or the tails should be cut first. For pins first, the pins are laid out and cut by the chosen method, then the outline of the pins is transferred to the face of the tail board. For tails first, the tails are laid out and cut and then the outline is transferred to the end grain of the pin board. Each has advantages and it is a personal choice as to which is chosen.


Hand cut dovetails can often be distinguished from machine-cut dovetails by the width of the pins. It is possible to have pins that are almost triangular when cut by hand that are not possible when cut with a router, owing to the thickness of the router bit's shank. These narrow pins are known as London Pins.


A through dovetail joint (also known as plain dovetail) joint, where the end grain of both boards is visible when the joint is assembled. Through dovetails are common in carcass and box construction. Traditionally, the dovetails would have often be covered by a veneer. However, dovetails have become a signature of craftsmanship and are generally considered a feature, so they are rarely concealed in contemporary work.


A half-blind dovetail is used when the craftsman does not wish end grain to be visible from the front of the item. The tails are housed in sockets in the ends of the board that is to be the front of the item so that their ends cannot be seen. Half-blind dovetails are commonly used to fasten drawer fronts to drawer sides. This is an alternative to the practice of attaching false fronts to drawers constructed using through dovetails.


The sliding dovetail is a method of joining two boards at right angles, where the intersection occurs within the field of one of the boards, that is not at the end. This joint provides the interlocking strength of a dovetail. Sliding dovetails are assembled by sliding the tail into the socket. It is common to slightly taper the socket, making it slightly tighter towards the rear of the joint, so that the two components can be slid together easily but the joint becomes tighter as the finished position is reached.


The full-blind dovetail obscures the mechanics of the joint altogether. This variant is used in fine work when the craftsperson requires the strength of a dovetail but without the visual intrusion of the interlocking pins and tails. Two versions of this joint are the secret double-lapped dovetail and the full-blind mitered dovetail. The former presents a very thin section of end grain on one edge of the joint, whilst the latter does not. When used in drawer construction, a "full-blind dovetail" is known as a "French dovetail."


Some of these ancient joints and has been found joining the wooden planks of the "Khufu ship", a 43.6 m long vessel sealed into a pit in the Giza pyramid complex of the Fourth Dynasty around 2,500 BC. It has also been found in archeological sites in the Middle East, Europe and Asia. In traditional Chinese architecture, wood components such as beams, brackets, roof frames and struts were made to interlock with perfect fit, without using fasteners or glues, enabling the wood to expand and contract according to humidity. Archaeological evidence from Chinese sites show that by the end of the Neolithic, mortise and tenon joinery was employed in Chinese construction. The 30 sarsen stones of Stonehenge were dressed and fashioned with mortise and tenon joints before they were erected between 2600 and 2400 B.C.



Butt Joint

A butt joint is a joinery technique in which two members are joined by simply butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest joint to make since it merely involves cutting the members to the appropriate length and butting them together. It is also the weakest because unless some form of reinforcement is used (see below) it relies upon glue alone to hold it together. Because the orientation of the members usually present only end grain to long grain gluing surface, the resulting joint is inherently weak.



Bridle Joint

A bridle joint is a woodworking joint, similar to a mortise and tenon, in that a tenon is cut on the end of one member and a mortise is cut into the other to accept it. The distinguishing feature is that the tenon and the mortise are cut to the full width of the tenon member.


The corner bridle joint (also known as a slot mortise and tenon) joins two members at their respective ends, forming a corner. This form of the joint is commonly used to house a rail in uprights, such as legs. It provides good strength in compression and is fairly resistant to racking, although a mechanical fastener or pin is often required. The bridle joint is very popular in workbench construction.



Butterfly Joint

A Butterfly joint is a type of joint used either to hold two or more wooden boards together or to keep two halves of a board that have already started to split from splitting further. They may also be used to stabilize the core of a knothole, preventing it from dropping out over time. A butterfly joint resembles two dovetails connected at the narrow part. A negative of the hole is cut out of the board the butterfly will be placed in and the butterfly is then fitted, keeping the joint together. The wood used for the butterfly is usually a contrasting wood, often walnut.



Coping Or Scribing Joint

Coping or scribing is the woodworking technique of shaping the end of a moulding or frame component to fit the contours of an abutting member. Most English speaking countries outside the US use the terms scribe and scribing. Coping is commonly used in the fitting of skirting and other moldings in a room. It allows for clean joints between intersecting members when walls are not square to each other. The other method of fitting these moldings that is commonly used is the mitre joint but this technique relies upon the walls being at 90° to each other for neat results.


Coping is only ever used for internal corners. External corners are always mitered. The main reason that scribed joints are used is that timber shrinks in width far more than it does in length. By using a scribed joint rather than an internal mitre joint the effect of shrinkage is minimized. Also it is possible to arrange the scribed joints pointing away from the most common viewpoint (usually the doorway of a room) and so present the best appearance.


A scribed joint (right end of sketch) is derived from an internal mitre cut (left end) by cutting along the inside face of the mitre cut at a right angle to the board, typically with a coping saw.


Coping is also commonly used in cabinet making for moldings and frame components. The rails in frame and panel construction are commonly cope cut to fit the profile of the stiles. The technique is also common in the construction of doors and windows.



Rail And Stile

Frame and panel construction (also called "rail and stile") is a woodworking technique often used in the making of doors, wainscoting, and other decorative features for cabinets, furniture, and homes. The basic idea is to capture a 'floating' panel within a sturdy frame, as opposed to techniques like slab drawer fronts which are simply single pieces of material with exposed end-grains. Usually, the panel is not glued to the frame - it is left to 'float' within it so that seasonal movement of the wood comprising the panel does not distort the frame.


Frame and panel construction at its most basic consists of five members: The panel and the four members which make up the frame. The vertical members of the frame are called stiles while the horizontal members are known as rails. A basic frame and panel item consists of a top rail, a bottom rail, two stiles, and a panel. This is a common method of constructing cabinet doors and these are often referred to as a five piece door.


In larger panels it is common to divide the panel into one or more sections. To house the extra panels, dividing pieces known as mid rails and mid stiles or muntins are added to the frame.


Pocket-Hole Joinery, Pocket-Screw Joinery, or Kreg Joinery involves drilling a hole at an angle into one work-piece, and then joining it to a second work-piece with a self-tapping screw. The technique, in addition to doweling, has its roots in ancient Egypt. Egyptians clamped two work-pieces together and bored a hole at an angle from the outside work-piece into the second work-piece. They then inserted a dowel with glue, and cut it off flush with the outermost surface.


A rabbet (also known as rebate) is a recess or groove cut into the edge of a piece of machinable material, usually wood. When viewed in cross-section, a rabbet is two-sided and open to the edge or end of the surface into which it is cut. The spelling rabbet is probably a derivation of rebate, the latter being more common outside of North America. An example of the use of a rabbet is in a glazing bar where it makes provision for the insertion of the pane of glass and putty. It may also accommodate the edge of the back panel of a cabinet. It is also used in door and casement window jambs.


Tongue and groove joint A strong joint, the tongue and groove joint is widely used for re-entrant angles. The effect of wood shrinkage is concealed when the joint is beaded or otherwise moulded. In expensive cabinet work, glued dovetail and multiple tongue and groove are used. Tongue and groove or T&G is a method of fitting similar objects together, edge to edge, used mainly with wood: flooring, parquetry, panelling, and similar constructions. Tongue and groove joints allow two flat pieces to be joined strongly together to make a single flat surface. Before plywood became common, tongue and groove boards were also used for sheathing buildings and to construct concrete formwork.


Solid parquet boards with tongues on the right sides of the boards and grooves on the left sides. Grooves are also visible on the near ends; the far ends are tongued.


Each piece has a slot (the groove) cut all along one edge, and a thin, deep ridge (the tongue) on the opposite edge. The tongue projects a little less than the groove is deep. Two or more pieces thus fit together closely. The joint is not normally glued, as shrinkage would then pull the tongue off. For many uses, tongue and groove boards have been rendered obsolete by the introduction of plywood and later composite wood boards, but the method is still used in good-quality flooring. Plywood may also be tongued all round to fit it flush into a framed structure, and plywood for sub-floors used in platform framing is often supplied with tongue and groove edges.When joining thicker materials, several tongue and groove joints may be used one above the other.


A dado (US and Canada), housing (UK) or trench (Europe) is a slot or trench cut into the surface of a piece of machinable material, usually wood. When viewed in cross-section, a dado has three sides. A dado is cut across, or perpendicular to, the grain and is thus differentiated from a groove which is cut with, or parallel to, the grain. A dado may be through, meaning that it passes all the way through the surface and its ends are open, or stopped, meaning that one or both of the ends finish before the dado meets the edge of the surface.



Dougong Chinese: 斗拱; pinyin: dǒugǒng

Dougong (simplified Chinese: 斗拱; traditional Chinese: 斗拱; pinyin: dǒugǒng) is a unique structural element of interlocking wooden brackets, one of the most important elements in traditional Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Malaysian and Singaporian architecture. The use of dougong first appeared in buildings of the late centuries BC and evolved into a structural network that joined pillars and columns to the frame of the roof.


Diagram of bracket and cantilever arms from the building manual Yingzao Fashi (published in 1103) of the Song Dynasty.


Dougong was widely used in the ancient Chinese during the Spring and Autumn Period (770 to 476 BC) and developed into a complex set of interlocking parts by its peak in the Tang and Song periods. The pieces are fit together by joinery alone without glue or fasteners, due to the precision and quality of the carpentry. After the Song Dynasty, brackets and bracket sets became more ornamental than structural when used in palatial structures and important religious buildings, no longer the traditional dougong.


Dougong inside the East Hall timber hall of Foguang Temple, built in 857 during the Tang Dynasty



Lost Art ? - We Can Provide The Replacement Parts Made In The Same Hand

In traditional Chinese architecture, wood components such as beams, brackets, roof frames and struts were made to interlock with perfect fit, without using fasteners or glues, enabling the wood to expand and contract according to humidity. Archaeological evidence from Chinese sites show that by the end of the Neolithic, mortise and tenon joinery was employed in Chinese construction. This was when Chinese construction was done with pride.






Lets Compare And Speak Frankly



Due to the vast array of Name Brand American Manufacturers that have in recent years sold out the public for higher profits with out regard for quality. Begining with the use of cheap foreign labor manufacturing along with pressed boards,veneers, and other low quality fake materials duplicating- coping the worlds famous quality designs without good conscience or regard for your future use requirements Not To Mention The Loss Of Your Hard Earned Investment.



Many Unscrupulous Manufacturers Offer Furniture And Doors Made By Methods Shown Below

We "Only" Provide Accurate Facts About These Products . We Also Instruct Our Designers To Provide You Factual Comparison Product Information When Possible With Out Bias Or Hype.




Fact : These Types Of Products Built This Way Will Never Become Heirlooms Or An Appreciable Assets - They Are Simply Furture Yard Sale Or Dumpster Fodder




Below is How Furniture And Doors Etc. Should Never Be Built - Armed With The Facts Is The Only Way We know To Make A Large Investment Decision Such As Your Heirloom Furniture. A Positive Result In Your Best Interest.



Most Sellers Are Simply Omitting Some Important Negative Facts. Most of these furnishings are made up of scarf joints and splice joints and glue in order to design each piece to fit in the shipping crate for the long journey overseas. The joints are then sanded filled and finished to hide the joints.
Sometimes particle board is used to make a frame, then a thin hard wood veneered surface is added by a laminating machine. Carvings are usually casted resin to match. Most legs are bolted on in place of true joinery.


If It Was Made To Fit In A Box It Is Never Investment Quality Furniture.
All good quality furniture the box, if any was required, was always built to fit the furniture.


Scarfed Joined, Veneers, Resin Castings Always Means Temporary Or Until The Glues Gives Out.

The scarf joint in woodworking, there are two distinctly different categories of scarf, based on whether the joint has interlocking faces or not. A plain scarf is simply two flat planes meeting on an angle relative to the axis of the stock being joined, and depends entirely on adhesive and/or mechanical fastening (screws, bolts, etc.) for all strength. Structured scarf joint includes hooked, keyed, and nibbed scarfs and are some of the many example of interlocking scarfs, offering varying degrees of tensile and compressive strength, though most still depend on mechanical fastening to keep the joint closed.



Splice Joint

A splice joint is a method of joining two members end to end in woodworking. The splice joint is used when the material being joined is not available in the length required. It is an alternative to other joints such as the butt joint and the scarf joint. Splice joints are stronger than unreinforced butt joints and have the potential to be stronger than a scarf joint. They are more visible than a scarf joint but may be preferred when more strength is required.


Splices are therefore most often used when structural elements are required in longer lengths than the available material. The most common form of the splice joint is the half lap splice, which is common in building construction, where it is used to join shorter lengths of timber into longer beams. The splice joint should never be used in quality furniture or door building.



There Are Many More Government Reports On Foreign Imports


Most cheap imports are useing engineered cores or faux materials such as paste boards, veneers, masonite, MDO plywood, melamine and oriented strand board panels with expensive wood sounding names such as walnut or hickory veneer etc.


The Result Is Never Positive


Source info: EIA US Office P.O. Box 53343 Washington, DC 20009 United States of America info@eia-global.org Tel +1 202 483 6621 Fax +1 202 986 8626 www.eia-global.org


Also using this illegal foreign wood it could also mean bug infestation. certificates of origin as well as de-infestation and are required on all imported woods due to the likely hood of bug infestation such as bed bugs. Click this link below for wood imports - Florida Entomologist report.


University of Florida, IFAS, Fort Lauderdale Research & Education Center 3205 College Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33314 Bug Infestation Information Facts: Important details that you should know before you purchase wood imports - Florida Entomologist 89(1) Report.


More Bug Infestation Information Facts: Important details that you should know before you purchase wood imports.



We believe you will also conclude from this information as we have experienced over our many years, only by using the best natural materials and master handcrafting, can one achieve the creation of a family heirloom investment quality furnishing or door that will stand the test of time. The use of true solid full length timber, hand hewn, mortis & tenon joined solid timber (no fake laminates, veneers scarf joints or glued-up parts).


Guaranteed "Forever" No questions asked, Backed by over nine decades of fine American craftsmanship.







Copyright © 1984 - © 2012 Scottsdale Art Factory L.L.C.
We always build using only the finest quality materials and craftsmanship from doors to gates to dining tables, all the way down to the hardware! Nothing misses our attention to detail!