FURNITURE AND DOOR MANUFACTURER
Posts Tagged ‘entry door’
Cedar Door Built By Viking Craftsman cir 1185
This church entrance for Stillingfleet Church in Yorkshire dates from 1185. The solid wood door is famous for its Viking ironwork and representations of a viking ship and other signs meant to act as charms. The exterior door is 4″ thick solid cedar and is “still” being used today.
Scottsdale Art Factory builds exterior doors today in the very same way they did in the 12th. century. We harvest from the North wood’s tall stands of Northern cedar. We air dry all of our timber naturally on the desert floor for a year or more prior to the final milling of your exterior door or interior door project. Once you have placed your order, we mill again to final dimensions required by your custom interior door or exterior door order. After this final milling we let it cure dry again. This is to insure that when we join and press these solid wood planks together they never warp, bow or split after the door has been joined together to make a solid wood door slab or blade.
Most materials used today are fast kiln dried. This is performed by force drying the material to a percentage of humidity level then joining. The rest of the drying time occurs after the product is delivered to your home. Usually warping and bowing and always shrinking all in the name of production speed and profit.
We at Scottsdale Art Factory (also known as scottsdaledoorfactory.com) do not rush anything we produce in the name of profit. We have the attitude that our reputation is on the line with each product produced so we simply build the old fashioned way, much like this historic exterior wood door that was built in the 12th century. By using the finest materials, the best master craftsman, along with methods and technology not much different from when the Vikings built this entry door has stood in working order for some 800 or so years. Proving as we always say, “if you build it right with pride of craftsmanship it will never need a warranty and will stand the test of time.”
We at Scottsdale Art Factory “guarantee all of our products forever” - no questions asked. All backed by our over nine decades of fine craftsmanship. We also have on staff some of the worlds best blacksmiths. Using these same techniques as the Vikings did on this door hardware. We still hand make fine hardware in any style. All finishes are patinas not faux or paint. See hundreds of interior and exterior door examples and our blacksmiths at work using hammer, anvil and forge all built to these specifications.
How To Measure & Install Your New Exterior Door
Installing door casing: casing, as the trim around doors (and windows) is called, has a strong impact on the overall style, appearance, and proportion of an opening as well as the overall style of your home’s interior. On the practical side, it conceals the gap between the door frame (called a jamb) and the rough opening and helps to hold the frame in the opening. Casing can be relatively plain, such as the popular clamshell design or square-edge design, or detailed, such as colonial-style molding. By far the most popular casing joint design is the mitered picture-frame casing. Our structural casing/jamb will fit any wall 4″ thick or better and does not require double two by fours or a header thus allowing for a taller and wider entry door.
1. Remove existing casing: if you are re-trimming an existing interior or exterior door, pry off the existing casing carefully so you won’t damage the wall or the doorjamb.
Tip: If a film of paint or bead of caulk bridges the joint between the casing and the wall, cut the seal with the point of a utility knife before attempting to pry the trim. This makes prying easier and eliminates the chance that you will pull off some of the wall finish or surface paper when you pry the casing.
2. Mark the reveals: the inside edge of the casing is typically placed back from the inside edge of the jamb by about 3/16 inch. To mark this reveal, set the blade position in a combination square so it protrudes 3/16 inch and mark jambs at the top corners, the midpoint of the head jamb, and several points along the side jamb. To make the mark, position the body of the square against the face of the jamb with the blade extending over the edge and mark at the end of the blade.
3. Cut all miters: measure the distance between your marks on the side jambs at the upper corners (frame opening plus 2 times the reveal) and miter-cut your head casing at 45 degrees on both ends so the short dimension equals your measurement. Cut miters on one end of each piece of side casing. Remember that one will be left-handed and one right handed.
4. Prime or stain: before you install the casing: if you intend to paint, apply a primer, or if you plan a natural finish, apply a stain and first topcoat. Cover the sides and both faces to seal the wood and prevent warping. Pre-finishing is also easier than painting in place, especially if you don’t intend to paint the walls when the installation is complete. If you stain before assembly, you also avoid the problem of stain not taking over any glue spots at the joints. Or order your pre-hung door completely pre finished.
5. Tack head casing: lightly tack the head casing into the jamb so it just covers your pencil marks. If the casing is being installed on the exterior you must use weather-resistant fasteners, such as hot-dipped galvanized nails.
6. Cut and test-fit side casings: stand the left side casing upside down next to the left jamb with its long side against the point of the head casing, and mark its desired length directly. Alternatively, measure from the floor to the top left-hand edge of the head casing and transfer that measurement to the casing. Square-cut at your mark and test the fit.
7. Make adjustments: If the miter does not meet without a gap, which can happen if the jamb is not square or if it sits slightly below or above the plane of the wall, the casing miter may need re-cutting.
8. Secure casing: apply glue to the end of the side casing and position it so it fits tightly with the head casing. (and not too worry about lining it up with the reveal marks on the rest of the jamb yet.) Secure it to the jamb. Position the nail about 1 inch from the end and near the outside edge of the casing. Then secure the inside edge of the casing to the jamb. Once the miter is tight, continue nailing the rest of the casing. Work your way from the top down, nailing at five equally spaced positions. Repeat for the opposite side and then complete nailing the head casing at the two ends and midpoint.
9. Cross-nail miters: to prevent miters from opening, drive a 4d finishing nail through the edge of the head and side casings about 3/4 inch from the outside corner. This will lock them together.
10. Finishing touches: wipe off any excess glue immediately with a damp cloth, drive all nail heads slightly below the surface with a nail set and hammer, and hand-sand as needed to make casings flush with each other and to eliminate any splinters. If you plan to paint, fill nail holes with wood putty or acrylic caulk first; if you will stain, fill them with colored wax putty sticks after you complete finishing.
When Installing a Scottsdale Art Factory Pre hung Interior Door or Exterior Entry Door you may skip steps 2 through 10. When you order a Scottsdale Art Factory door, every item ordered comes installed by our factory master craftsman. If you order locks, hinges door pulls or any other hardware it will already be installed on your new door. Also your door will come completely custom finished to your specifications. The finish will be hand rubbed to heirloom furniture standards.